Joining the jacket sections

  After quilting the sections with a very large stipple, I trimmed each section to size by the pattern  minus 1/2 inch at the shoulders and side seams.      

  Probably the most important point  here is to be sure that the front sections match exactly in length.  After the quilting there was some minor stretching to one side, so I was brave and just whacked it off.

 

 Joining the sections:

  Bulk is a big problem in making a quilted jacket.  That is a lot of layers to deal with and the seams get so thick.  This joining technique eliminates the bulk and covers the seam on the inside.  The edges of the sections will butt together  and be covered on the outside and inside.  ( That is why I trimmed the side and shoulder seams 1/2 inch.)   I used a 2 inch strip on the outside that was pieced to blend with the sections it would join.  The inner strip in double fold--like quilt binding--and the first side is sewn on with the outer strip to one section.  Then the other side of the outer strip is sewn to the joining section.  When you turn the jacket to the inside, the folded binding is then pressed over the join and stitched down.  Seam covered.   Note....I kept having to remind myself to use 1/2 inch seam allowance and not 1/4 inch as usual.

 
   Here is the outside view to show how the join looks across the shoulder and at the sleeve.  The florals make it easy to hide. 

** I learned a new trick....did you know you could add words to photos in picasa 3? How did I miss that before?

  I am still debating on the applique...whether to add it or not.  This is the point in construction to do it, while it is in a flat garment stage.  Just the quick cuffs and side seams to go before finishing the binding.  Wouldn't you know the weather has really turned warm again, so it will be 6 months before I even wear it. 
  OK, off to the dentist to get this tooth fixed, so I am done stitching today.  Maybe tomorrow......

Sweatshirt jacket-- Cut it up and cover the pieces

    I thought I would have the jacket done by now....but chipped/cracked tooth interfered.  After visits to the dentist and oral surgeon, hopefully I will get it fixed and saved on Tuesday.  So my stitching has been in spurts this week and  I only have the front sections and sleeves covered. 
  I am using a polar fleece for the foundation, but it is done just like covering a cut up sweatshirt. 

    The front sections are very straight forward.....just block to block construction to create a piece of  big enough to cover the jacket front.  That is 2 sections, left and right sides.  Once I pinned it to the fleece, I then trimmed it around the neck and armhole areas, leaving about an inch extra.   My next step for these sections is to do part of the quilting to anchor the fabric to the fleece.  I plan on adding some applique across one shoulder to the back and one sleeve, so that area will not be quilted for now.   

    The sleeves are a little different to cover  because of shape and length.  A lot of the area of the sleeve will not be seen as it is on the under arm side.  Basically, the part that is seen is through the center of the sleeve--top to bottom.  So take that into consideration, if you are wanting to feature a pieced or applique block on a sleeve area.  Second, is the sleeve length.....I have short arms and my sleeve only needed 2  and 1/2 blocks to cover the length.  This affected the layout.  I could either cut a block in half or use whole blocks and add fill strips. 
   Here's what I did to one sleeve.  Two blocks across the widest top area...these are medium to light blocks that will blend with the front and back sections.  One block centered to the bottom of the sleeve and this one
is a darker one. 

Now to fill in the blank spots........At the bottom I decided to go ahead and cut one block in half and place it on either side of the centered block.  I like how it blended here, rather than 2 blocks side by side.  No real reason--just me.    Pieced strips will fill in the remaining blank areas between the blocks and at the bottom. 

Short strips will be added to the upper sleeve to finish covering the fleece.  Then the entire piece will be trimmed a bit to shape. 

You have to kind of think in 3-D when covering the different sections....by that I mean, remember that the front shoulder attaches to the sleeve and back.  So keep the  fabric value close to what it will attach to for a blended look.  The same is true at the side seams for the front and back. 
    So, I've got another sleeve  and back to figure out and then create the applique I want.  Here's to a great weekend.  Happy stitching.

Switching it up

I completed a few more batik blocks and put them up on the design wall.  And decision made!
    Switch:  a change or transformation. 
  Yes, that is what I have decided to do.  I am  switching  things up on my 2 on-going projects---the watercolor floral quilt and the drunkard's path jacket in batiks.
    My off-handed remark about making a quilt with the batik blocks set my thinking in that direction.  Then Wanda's comment that they would be a beautiful quilt, was exactly right on.   An artsy quilt that  explores color and movement and doesn't really follow the rules or a set pattern  was calling me.  And that surprised me! 

    Why?  I began as a very traditional quilter about 25 years ago.....buy a pattern, follow directions, and so on.  And somewhere along the way, I have found my own way.  I don't always follow the trends or the current thing that is in vogue.  Maybe I am just kind of behind  the times, or just off in my own world.  I continue to work in watercolors and florals because it makes me happy and content.  Remember---do what you love.  Yet, I have found that I look to expand that technique by  translating watercolor and value into other designs and patterns---traditional or not.  In scrappy quilts, I push value to see what happens.  And participating in the Journal Quilt Challenge this year has been such an inspiration and motivation to me.  I have really enjoyed playing and seeing what others create.   So all this came together in my head and gave me a big push/nudge/urge to  turn the blocks into a quilt. 
    So what's the problem.....I wanted to do a jacket to try the technique for joining and bindings.   I love the DP and NY Beauty blocks, but I just could not see myself wearing them---not on my body.    Yes, they would be a striking jacket, but I would probably never wear it. 

    I was sitting in my sewing room, as all this went through my head, and right in front of me--on the design wall--was the perfect answer.  The floral blocks..... I could see myself wearing a jacket made with the floral blocks.  They blend, create light and shadow--that could be useful!   And they could be a background for some applique.  So, the watercolor floral blocks are going to become the jacket and the batik blocks are going into a quilt.

   I did a few quick sketches for a layout on the new jacket idea and I think I need a few more light blocks for it.   Still have lots of strips so that won't be a problem. 
  Insight:  Again I say to me----follow your instincts and do what you love.   One of these days, I am going to get that firmly planted in my brain.

  Happy stitching.

Exactly what does crow taste like?

This time at least, it tastes like honey...I learned a new trick/technique/easy piecing guide tip!  

  It was time to cut into some of those beautiful batiks I won and had in my stash.  For the jacket class it meant curves and a glue stick.....neither which appeal to me very much.  But I had signed up and one of my insights was to try and learn new techniques, so.......I re-read the class instructions. 

  Light bulb moment!  The freezer paper templates were  cutting and sewing guides, not applique!  So I tackled 6 of the plain drunkard's path blocks, and got them cut out.  I dug out the glue stick and headed to the ironing board.  Very sparingly I used the glue stick to the correct guide and fabric piece and a light press.   To the machine, line up the arc and the arm/leg piece, pull back the arc template, pull back the fabric on the arm piece and stitch next to the freezer paper glued to the arm piece!  So easy....how did I miss this before. 

  

 

This is what I took to the sewing machine.  The arc pattern piece is on the right side of the fabric.  No seam allowance pressed under.  The freezer paper on this piece is a placement guide only.  The freezer paper piece is on the wrong side of the arm piece.  The glue is only spotted along the seam line on this piece, and the seam is pressed under and thus glued to the freezer paper.  To sew the center points are matched at the mark and pinned. 

  Gently pull back the fabric on the arm piece and check your pinning and placement.  Keep the curve of the arm matched to the arc.

Then remove the arc paper.  Then stitch along the edge of the freezer paper guide on the arm piece.   

   


  Just look at how well the 2 arcs match in the center row?  That's another tip from the class.  You create a master template piece to tape to your square ruler for squaring up the blocks.  This is your guide when squaring up the blocks.

     The more I look at these blocks, the more I like them......they have a real eye catching design.  Do I really need another jacket, would I wear this jacket,  or should these be used in a quilt?   I could do other blocks and fabrics for the jacket, or maybe I have enough for both?   OK, now I have added a whole new dimension to this project, or else it's the meds I am on.  I'll have to ponder this while I'm making more blocks.

Maybe the antibiotics  have kicked in finally, because I think I'm ready to eat some more crow on this.

 Happy stitching.

Sweatshirt jacket

I finished up the sweatshirt jacket  a couple of nights ago and got it washed yesterday.  I cut hunks of blue fabrics--mainly tone on tone prints--and pinned and stitched them down raw edge applique style.  Then I quilted it all over with loops and swirls and a bit of stacked tear drops.  A lot of hours and about 8 bobbins of thread!  The next time, if there is a next time, I will not use a sweatshirt for the base but polar fleece.  It is such a pain working on the knitted sweatshirt and I would rather have a longer version. 

I do like the overall appearance, and love the mis-matched buttons I found in my stash to use for the closures.   Rather than add binding to the sleeve edge, I made a cuff that folds back about 1 1/2 inches.  Kudos to my Featherweight machine that just hummed along when I attached the binding and made the button loops.  I love that little machine!